Author: Jacques Quass de Vos
The third wave of coffee washed over Japan like a rich, aromatic tsunami. Along with it came a new kind of cultural space. Not the kind of place where you would merely buy a cup of coffee to flip open your Mac and ask for the Wi-Fi password; no, Japanese specialty coffee shops are special. While the coffee shop has always had its place in the world as a makeshift boardroom, a platform for political discourse, a comfortable first-date spot, and a public hideaway, it may be a little different in Japan. Here, it can also be a place to indulge in loud jazz, play with kittens, receive service from your favourite anime character, and, most importantly: see a master brewer at work.
Despite entering the global coffee scene relatively late, Japan has once more found a way to make something foreign its own.
A Brief History of Coffee in Japan
At the port of Dejima, Nagasaki – Japan’s only point of contact with the outside world during their isolationist years (1603-1868) – they were introduced to the magic bean. Before their expulsion, the locals referred to coffee as the drink of the “red-haired” Portuguese and Spanish traders[1][2]. Later, the Dutch-owned Higashi Indo Gaisha (VOC) established a trading monopoly at Dejima. Due to the beans’ profitability elsewhere, the Dutch brought its first coffee shipments to Japan. Although Japanese consumers found its taste foul and bitter, rangakusha (scholars of Western knowledge) noted its medicinal benefits; it was a favoured gift among prostitutes in Nagasaki, and eventually, it was even demonstrated as an offering to the gods[2]. Still, it was never considered a tradable commodity.
Later, when Japan was forced to reopen itself to trade, and the Meiji era (1868-1912) commenced, coffee shops sprouted up all over Japanese urban centers. Kōhī became a source of wakon yōsai (Japanese spirit, Western learning[2]). These shops symbolized modernity associated with the West, often styled with French interiors, foreign menus, and jazz. Still, the jokyū (café waitress) contradicted the image of the “Modern Girl” in this time of cultural assimilation. Jokyū were “undeniably Japanese,” seemingly resembling the meshimori onna (waitress) of the Edo period[3].
Between 1908 and 1941, it is estimated that 189,000 Japanese farmers emigrated to Brazil in search of the money trees which carry the coffee bean[4]. Why this Japanese diaspora chose Brazil as its target nation is no surprise, considering that Brazil is said to have produced over three-quarters of the world’s coffee stock at the time[5]. Ryo Mizuno, “father of immigration to Brazil,” is attributed to sending many contract labourers to Brazil after he visited plantations near São Paolo in 1906[6]. Mizuno opened Café Paulista in Ginza, Tokyo, 1913. Receiving free shipments of coffee from the São Paulo government for some time after opening, Café Paulista could provide coffee at a cheaper price than their competition and popularized the taste for Brazilian coffee as they could set up shop all over Japan.
Coffee tastes and preferences in Japan
During the interwar period and after WW2 – which halted the import of coffee in Japan[1] – preferences surrounding techniques, tastes, and aesthetics evolved to become uniquely Japanese. Consumption rose dramatically, as the country now consumes nearly 8 million bags of green coffee annually, topping the Asian market for coffee[7]. Brazilian beans (more suited for dark roasts) remain the largest import, followed by Vietnamese beans.
While specialty coffee shops cater to consumers of all preferences, dark-roasted coffee remains the country’s favourite[8][9][10]. Likewise, a preference for a stronger brew (compared to the US and Germany) is evident[1]. Not only should the coffee be stronger, but so should the coffeemaker: the Japanese enjoy more elaborate coffee-making techniques – improving taste instead of efficiency – which is often time consuming and involves a lot of careful effort[1]. Still, many individuals with fast-paced lifestyles may prefer a simple canned coffee from the vending machine. In specialty stores, there is a preference for a blended coffee (instead of a purist single-bean brew); furthermore, drip coffee (pour-over) and siphon coffee are two popular choices for Japanese connoisseurs, as opposed to espresso, which is more popular across the rest of the world[1].
Shokunin in the Modern Japanese Coffee Scene
Regarding nearly any aspect of Japanese travail, there is a perceived element of obsessive pride. Indeed, humility is ingrained within Japanese culture and language[11][12], but modesty cannot stand in the way of perfection. In conversation with a local Capetonian barista – one with a profound interest in Japanese coffee culture – the word shokunin came to light. Shokunin are artisans or craftsmen; unsurprisingly, the Japanese also have a word to explain that same element of obsessive pride: shokunin kishitsu, the spirit of a true artisan. While the word only really reached Western media in 2011 following the release of Jiro Dreams of Sushi, it perfectly describes the care that many Japanese put into their handiwork[13].
In A Film About Coffee, two shokunin are highlighted – Katsuji Daibo and Katsuyuki Tanaka[14]. These names have made waves in the Tokyo coffee scene; Daibo ran his kissaten in Omotesandō for nearly four decades and is anecdotally attributed to making the “most labour-intensive coffee in the world[15].” He carefully reads his customers and then chooses a suitable cup based upon that impression, evidence of his incredible humanity. Katsuyuki Tanaka, on the other hand, has a different coffee philosophy: converse to the traditional style of hand-drip coffee you find in a traditionally dimly lit Japanese kissaten, his art is the innovation of espresso and capturing the aesthetic of New York’s East-Village[16]. Hell-bent on perfectionism, he refuses to open his store unless the day’s coffee meets his exceptionally high standards.
These artisans are making customers appreciate the process again and improving their product for the community as opposed to personal benefit. Their work is a testament to the enduring spirit of wakon yōsai, encapsulating the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese spirit and Western learning. The evolving artistry of Japanese coffee culture demonstrates how Japan continues to adapt and redefine foreign influences, creating a unique and captivating coffee experience. The price of a cup of coffee is no longer derived merely from the origin and quality of the beans: it is derivative of a shokunin’s heart.
REFERENCES:
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[5]Ward, Robert DeC. “The Economic Climatology of the Coffee District of Sao Paulo, Brazil.” Bulletin of the American Geographical Society 43, no. 6 (1911): 428. https://doi.org/10.2307/199479.
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[13]Nakayama, Makoto, and Yun Wan. “Same Sushi, Different Impressions: A Cross-Cultural Analysis of Yelp Reviews.” Information Technology & Tourism 21, no. 2 (2018): 181–207. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40558-018-0136-5.
[14]A Film About Coffee. Avocadoes and Coconuts, 2014. https://www.avocadosandcoconuts.com/project/coffee-benefit.
[15]Goulding, Matt. “Daibo Dreamed of Coffee.” Roads & Kingdoms, December 5, 2013. https://roadsandkingdoms.com/2013/daibo/.
[16]How Katsuyuki Tanaka Found His “East Village” in Tokyo’s Bear Pond Espresso. YouTube. Highsnobiety, 2016. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7dW1eP3ivw&ab_channel=Highsnobiety.